You may smile at the films from the 1950s featuring the ultimate in electronic sophistication, computers that filled a room and wouldn’t hold enough data to even worry the desktop or laptop computers these days.
However that smile might slip a little when you are told that the punch card method of holding data dates back to the 19th century. Charles Babbage, an English mathematician started designing a machine called the Analytical Engine. He experimented with different designs up until his death in 1871. He realised that the design could be programmed with the use of punch cards. The engine used loops of the cards to control a mechanical calculator. The calculator formulated results based on the results on the results of preceding calculations.
One of the early massive uses of punch cards as file storage devices took place in the American Census of 1900. After the census data was gathered, the facts recorded were transferred to cards, one card per person. The holes would be punched in the cards according to the possible answers to questions asked on the forms. Each card had 240 different places that any one hole may be punched.
Then the cards were counted using an electrical counting machine invented by Herman Hollerith. The machine is set up so that needles passing through the holes on each card make an electrical connection to operate clock faced dials showing numbers corresponding to each datum or combination of data. A truly innovative method of file storage that happened before the 20th century began.
Take care of your tools and they will take care of you. This might sound a bit old fashioned but sometimes the old fashioned ideas are the best ones. If you did woodwork or metalwork at school, this notion will have been repeated over and again by your class teacher.
In these days of mass-production of just about everything, cheap tools are all around us. Take for example wood-saws, formerly with a wooden handle and blade made of steel that needed regular sharpening. Nowadays, blades are made from alloys that last much longer and with mass-produced and therefore cheaper to produce, handles which are usually made from plastic, are low in price and for all intents and purposes, disposable.
Not matter what their cost, not looking after your tools properly is potentially dangerous and could cause damage to a project that will mean needing to replace the piece of wood or starting again. Whether it is a project involving the building of shelving units, shelf racks or storage racking. Poorly cared for tools can cause accidents. For instance, a blunt chisel will need more effort to make it cut and this extra effort might cause it to slip. A blunt drill bit may snap if too much pressure is applied.
An oilstone to keep your chisel blades sharp is an investment worth considering. If their blades have become wet, dry them thoroughly first, leave them somewhere warm first to make sure they dry properly then spray them with oil afterwards.
With a stair landing that is reasonably easy to modify you might consider creating extra storage space. Assuming there is an unused “dead space” you have the opportunity to install a stair trap which will allow you to create an area roughly three by four feet deep into which shelf racks could be installed. If the shelf racks are self-assembly they can be adjusted to suit your needs.
To begin, remove the floor and sub-floor from the landing. Be careful about pipes or electrical wiring possibly running alongside the floor joists. Remove the top two treads and stair risers.
Nail the ledgers to the floor joists on either side of the opening, allowing room for the thickness of the door framing. Cut the subfloor plywood to size and fasten the side frame pieces to the lower edges of the panel. Attach the frame pieces to the panel at each end.
Cut the stringer pieces to size, attach them to the lower front edge of the subfloor panel. Fasten the remaining frame member across the bottom of the subfloor at the point where the stringers end. Cut risers and treads to size, cut the grip and attach it to the face of the front riser. Install the finish flooring in place atop the subfloor.
Place the assembled unit in position. Fasten strap hinges to wall and flooring.
Open the door; fasten the angle bracket to the door frame. Attach the gas struts and establish where to attach the remaining set of support brackets. Finish the floor material to match the existing floor.
You may have an ambition to practice the skill of wood turning but do not have enough money to afford a fully equipped lathe. There is an alternative of course; you could buy a lathe accessory for your drill. Lathe accessories will typically consist of long channelled bases to be screwed down to the tops of workbenches, preferably at the back. Into the channel, the headstock is slotted as well as a tool rest and tail stock assemblies. The electric drill will fit into the headstock providing the motive power for the lathe.
This basic drill attachment will not provide the same scope as a miniature bench-mounted lathe or a larger, more sophisticated cabinet type lathe. However, it will extend your drill’s capabilities, especially if you only expect to turn a piece of wood now and then. Another advantage is that you will be able to become familiar with wood turning techniques before deciding to invest in a larger and more sophisticated lathe.
Workbenches are places where sharp tools are being used as are high-speed mechanical devices such as saws and drills. In this kind of environment, you must always take adequate safety precautions. Wear protective eye goggles, a face mask to prevent the inhalation of dust particles and ear defenders when using loud mechanical devices such as jigsaws or electric planers.
Always keep your hands away from fast-moving machinery and switch off power tools when not being used and store them away. Chisels, saws and other sharp implements must also be stored away safely.
Woodworking hobbyists or indeed professional carpenters will use the shelf storage area under their workbenches to hold a variety of things. It is also a useful place to store the tool box. However, even the most well organised toolbox can become overfilled after a while and, at this point, the woodworker may consider building a purpose made tool cabinet.
The great advantage to building your own cabinet is that you can make it as large or as small as you like depending upon your anticipated needs. Even the insides of the doors should be made use of as a storage place for a handsaw and a tenon saw. Shelf storage room inside the cabinet can be made adjustable to cope with any future acquisitions.
A drawer for screws, nails, drill bits and other odds and ends is a good idea and need not take up too much room in the tool cabinet. When finished the tool cabinet will probably look best in its natural state. However, be sure to treat it with preservative before coating it with a clear varnish. Not forgetting to apply both substances in a well ventilated area of the workshop.
Attach it to the workshop wall by drilling four holes into the cabinet’s back, one at each corner. Hold it against the wall, then use a spirit level to check it is straight and mark the position through the holes. Prepare the holes using rawl plugs and fix the cabinet in place using two inch woodscrews
Once a basic workbench has been installed, a carpenter may want to make additions to it in order to enhance his repertoire as far as shaping and working wood is concerned. Usually workbenches already have a recess tray for tools and a shelf underneath for the storage of sections of wood, various tins and possibly a toolbox as well.
G-Clamps are ideal when workbenches are being used to hold a large, flat piece of wood steady so that the woodworker can cut along its length or cut a special groove across or along the grain. A pair of G-Clamps would be placed at either end of the workbench and a piece of scrap wood should be placed as protection between the wood and the foot of the clamp.
The vertical drill stand is another accessory worth considering. Sometimes you will need to drill holes at exact right angles to an exact depth. Clamping the wood into the vice and using the drill free-hand cannot absolutely guarantee this kind of accuracy.
There are a variety of drill stands on the market, and you should be able to find one that will suit your particular drill. They all work in the basic way in that they clamp the drill upright in its holder, and then the drill can be lowered onto the piece of wood with the use of a lever. Some drill stands will have a calibrated scale on them and an adjustable stop to prevent them from drilling too far into the wood.
Workbenches are perfect for most woodworking jobs and are the mainstay of a carpenter’s workshop, whether he or she is a professional or an amateur. Workbenches can with a few adjustments be made a lot more versatile though and able to cope with very nearly anything you may need to do.
For the most part, for example, the work you use the vice for will mostly involve working with reasonably small pieces of wood, frequently cutting mortises and tenons, drilling holes, sanding and so forth. Now and again though, you may need to work with a longer than usual piece of wood which may be difficult to hold in the vice which will stretch so far past the vice that its own weight will cause it to tilt down when planing making the work impossible. To solve the problem, cut a six inch piece of five-eighths of an inch diameter dowling. Now drill a two inch hole at the right side of the bench, through the skirt and into the front leg.
Sometimes a piece of wood is simply too awkward to hold in the vice because of its shape or size. A bench hook is the ideal solution. To make one of your own, all you need is a piece of hardwood, eight by five by three quarter inches. Two blocks of wood, 4 inches by 7/8 by 7/8 of an inch. They should be fitted to the base of the bench hook so that one is fully to the left and one fully to the right.
There are plenty of portable workbenches and work tables from which to choose, but the more serious woodworker will probably want something more heavy-duty, with a proper carpenter’s vice attached to it. It should also have a work-surface that is long and wide enough to work comfortably even when making larger items. It should be positioned to make the most of natural light.
The traditional workbench has four sturdy legs held together by rails at its top and bottom. The bottom rails will support a lower shelf on which spare pieces of wood, tins of wood stain, varnish and other odds and ends can be stored. The front rail, typically, is six inches deep, twice as deep as the side and back rails. The reason for this is that the front rail will need to have a vice attached.
Workbenches usually have oak working surfaces and this should have a good sized tool tray recess as well. Making a decision on which vice is best for your woodworking requirements is not easy. There are a great many vices available and their price varies according to their size, strength and quality. An expensive, strong model will last for a good many years, but a cheaper version may be adequate for the amateur woodworker. An average woodworking vice must be fitted securely into place. It should always be remembered that a poorly fitted vice could cause a serious accident, especially when power tools and sharp instruments are being used.
The hobby of wood working is still very popular. Some regard it as therapeutic, others as practical. Even a simple piece of furniture handcrafted by the householder has a certain style of its own. There is also the feeling of satisfaction in the knowledge that you made that footstool or table. Furthermore the woodworker can tailor make shelving units, for example, to the exact dimensions available in his or her home.
The garage or the garden shed are the most popular places for an amateur woodworker to set up a workshop. A garage, typically, will have the advantage of a solid, concrete floor, plenty of light and a power supply. Should the garden shed be the only viable option, check the floor will be able to stand the weight of the work bench or work table. If necessary you may wish to reinforce the floor with more timber. You might also want to run a power supply from the house. However, this kind of work, even the installation of an electric light can be potentially dangerous and should be left to a professional electrician.
Fitting out your workshop to suit your needs is the next important thing to do. There are a good many portable workbenches on the market which are ideal unless you are going to be making larger items, when a more solid workbench is required. Shelf storage room or shelf racks to store tools will also need to be considered, taking into account the amount of space in the workshop.
Affixing a shelf to the wall is a relatively simple task for the experienced DIYer. The right tools for the job are essential. A spirit-level to ensure the shelf is straight, measuring tape, the correct drill bit, masonry or wood, depending on the surface to which the shelf is to be attached. Wood or plastic wall plugs, screws, screwdriver and a pencil.
Having decided where to fix the shelf, first place the metal shelf bracket against the wall and use the pencil to mark its position through one of its screw holes. Take the bracket away, use a piece of masking tape wrapped around the drill bit at the length of the screw.
Use the chuck screw to make certain you have tightened the bit firmly, then, holding the drill straight, drill into the wall, pushing gently letting the drill do the work. Once you have reached the marking tape on the drill bit, pull the drill out. Push the wall plug into the hole, making sure it is flush with the surface.
Place the bracket over the screw-hole, insert the first screw and screw it most of the way in. Use the spirit level to check the bracket is straight and mark the second screw-hole with the pencil. Swing the bracket to one side and drill the second hole. Push the bracket back, tighten the first screw, and then screw the first bracket into place. Place the spirit level atop the shelf to place the second bracket and fix it into place.